Scoure Heavy Infantry for Dropzone Commander
Paints you will need for this Project:
Vallejo Model Air Sand Yellow 71.028
Vallejo Game Air Bone White 72.734
Vallejo Game Air Pale Flesh 72.703
Vallejo Game Colour Umber Shade 73.203
Vallejo Game Colour Blue Shade 73.207
Vallejo Model Color Off White 70-820
Vallejo Model Air Gungrey 71.072 (Destroyers Only)
Vallejo Model Air Steel 71.065 (Destroyers Only)
Games Workshop Druchii Violet
Games Workshop Carroburg Crimson
Games Workshop Bloodletter Glaze
Vallejo Model Air Ferrari Red 71.085 (Destroyer Eyes)
Vallejo Model Air Scarlet Red 71.003 (Destroyer Eyes)
Vallejo Game Air Orange Fire 72.708 (Destroyer Eyes)
Vallejo Game Color Extra Opaque Heavy Blue 72-143 (Eviscerator Eyes)
Vallejo Game Air Magic Blue 72.721 (Eviscerator Eyes)
For the base:
Games Workshop Seraphim Sepia (wash over sand) - or Umber Shade
Vallejo Game Colour Scrofulous Brown 72.038 (first highlight)
Vallejo Game Colour Plague Brown 72.039 (second highlight)
Vallejo Model Colour Dark Sand 70.847 (last highlight)
Yes...really...all those paints were used in the above!
About working with small scale figures...
It's important to keep in mind that the figures you'll be working with are fairly small and but that really doesn't change how the basics of the figure are going to be handled. Though they can be a bit more tricky you are still going to be priming, base coating, highlighting, washing and then edge highlighting and detailing each of them. The wonderful thing about these Scourge troops is the incredible detail they have. Even if the eyes are the size of a pin point they're sculpted on and done in a way that's easy to pick out. Don't be intimidated by their size though - the details are raised in such a way as to make picking them out easier than you might think.
Step 1.
Tools of the trade.
It's important to prepare your figures before priming them. Remove all flash from the model and carefully clean any mold lines present. I use a combination of diamond files, sanding paper/sticks, a hobby knife and a seam scraper. On small figures with lots of ridges like these Scourge the easiest way to spot the mold lines is to look at their round base pegs. If you see a large mold line along their base odds are good that line is going to go up and down the side of the figure.
Once cleaned and polished up a bit we're going to need a good way of holding the figure so that our hands (and the natural oil that comes off your skin) don't rub against the figure. Your fingers can pull paint off of minis like these (specifically metal with fine/sharp details) incredibly fast before their sealed. I like to put the smallest possible dot of zap-a-gap onto the feet of the mini and place them on their base. This isn't a final placement, just a means of holding the figure that will allow us something to grip without having to hold something so small.
A few notes: The figures are larger than most other DZC 10mm being as they are supposed to be 10 foot tall monsters (literally). As such it will take careful placement on their bases to get them to line up properly.
This means two things: 1. You will have to carefully test fit each of the pieces and do a lot of posing before actually gluing them into the base. 2. You won't be able to glue them all into position and (easily) paint them. As such I chose to glue them onto separate bases temporarily until they're done.
This will allow me to more easily get to all the nooks and crannies of the figures and find the details.
Step 2.
Prime and basecoat.
Time to warm up your airbrush.
For a primer I chose Vallejo Grey. Grey is a nice mix between the sometimes too bright nature of a white primer and the drab results that come from using a black. A quick thin coat covering the figures and base is all that's needed.
The first layer of paint used is Vallejo Sand Yellow. It's a great base colour that will help create a bone coloured look. After the initial layer is dry I highlighted the figures with bone white. To do this I specifically held the figures and lightly sprayed top down on them so that the bone colour would just catch the top ridges of the figure leaving the sand yellow underneath. The idea is to layer the colour and let the base still be present on the model as opposed to covering the first colour. You should focus your airbrush on the heads and then turn the figure no more than 45 degrees to hit the rest of the armour plating.
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